Want to know what things you should look for when buying a fixer upper house? These are important things to check when considering if a house is a good fit for a DIY fixer upper home renovation. This is a checklist I always run through when deciding whether to buy a fixer upper home.
Here is the fixer upper house I was considering buying. It is a simple 1980’s era home that is a bit past its *original* prime. This post will use this house as an example when going through the checklist items for buying a fixer upper house.
1. Foundation:
The foundation is the one of the most important parts of a house as it is founding element on which the house is supported. If there is a problem with the foundation, there are likely more problems in the upper parts of the house as well. Plus, foundation repair is one of the most costly types of residential repairs. Inspecting the foundation for problems is one of the best things you can do before buying a fixer upper house. Here are some major things I looked for in the foundation:
- Can you view the foundation either from the exterior or from a basement or crawlspace? If it is completely covered, that may be a sign that something unwanted is being covered up.
- Foundation Material – Concrete is best. Brick or stone is not good in seismic areas.
- Cracks or crumbling areas? Small hairline cracks are generally fine, but large cracks and crumbling areas are a sign of larger issues that will likely need a costly repair.
- Water leakage through the foundation? This is easiest to see if the house has a crawlspace or basement. Are there white lines along the foundation? This is called efflorescence and is formed as water seeps through the foundation and deposits minerals as it evaporates. Minor efflorescence is generally OK, but large amounts could indicate water problems around the house that may be seeping into the wood framing and creating rot.
Here is a photo from the crawlspace of our fixer upper house. You can see some white lines along the concrete where water is seeping through. Other than that, the foundation looks pretty good. No large cracks with a solid concrete perimeter.
2. Crawlspace:
If there is a crawlspace or basement below the house, get in there with a light and a camera and take a look around. I know, it’s dark and dirty, but there are important things to see! Following is a list of things to inspect in the crawlspace:
- Moisture – Is the soil wet or damp? Or worse yet, is the framing wet or damp? Does it smell wet or damp? These may be signs of water issues that can cause foundation and framing problems.
- Ventilation – are there air vents at all sides of the exterior wall in the crawlspace? Proper ventilation helps mitigate moisture problems.
- Wood Framing – does the framing look to be in good condition? Is it dry and free of rot? Are connections and supports solid?
- Cripple Wall – This is the short wood-framed wall at the perimeter. If you live in a seismic zone, check if the cripple wall is braced with plywood panels and is anchored to the foundation. Otherwise, the house could be at risk of serious damage during an earthquake.
- Insulation – is there insulation between the floor joists above to help reduce energy costs and keep the home comfortable? Is the insulation in good condition?
- Any visible plumbing – check for signs of leaking plumbing such as pooled water or moist areas.
Here is a photo from the crawlspace where you can see the insulation is falling away from the floor joists. I discovered that rats were living in the insulation and tearing it up! It was very smelly from all the rat pee, was in poor condition, and needed to be replaced.
3. Exterior Wall Siding:
Walk around the full exterior of the house and inspect the wall siding. Stucco or stone is generally more costly to fix when compared to wood or hardy panel siding. Here are some things I look for when viewing the siding:
- If stucco or stone – are the any large cracks? Any diagonal cracks at the corner of doors or windows? This can be a sign of foundation movement and larger issues.
- If wood siding or panels – any soft or discolored areas? Are nails popped? Is paint fraying? Is it bubbling or misshapen anywhere? These are signs that the siding is damaged in some way and may need to be replaced.
Here is the exterior siding at our house. It consisted of T1-11 plywood panel siding that was in surprisingly good condition considering its age. However, upon closer inspection, it was completely rotted out at the deck ledgers. This is pretty common because the ledge is not often properly waterproofed.
*Spoilers!* We did end up buying this home as part of an acreage fixer upper. It is how One Hundred Acres Home was born! When we demo’d the back deck, we found a huge hole in the siding where rats had been getting into the crawlspace and using the insulation for their nests!
4. Exterior Decks:
Next, inspect any exterior decks for wood rot. That is very common, especially at the ledger where the deck meets the house. If the decks need to be replaced, that can be costly as it may require a building permit and various design professionals.
Here is the front deck at our house. It was almost 40 years old at this point, mossy and rotten, wobbly, and in need of replacement.
Here is the back deck. It is in even worst condition than the front! Home insurance was not happy about this deck and made us replace it right away.
5. Windows & Doors:
These are things I check for when looking at the windows and doors:
- Do all windows and doors operate well? If they don’t open, it may be a sign that the house has shifted and may have foundation problems. Foundation shifting is even more likely if you see cracks in the wall finish at the corners of windows and doors.
- Are they good quality or do they need to be replaced? Full replacement can be costly, especially if you hire that out.
- Are there signs of water intrusion or water marks along the sills? Water damage may mean window, surrounding siding, and potentially framing replacement.
Our windows and door have some broken screens but otherwise operate fine. However, they are an older, early version of double-paned windows with aluminum frames and don’t provide the level of insulation we want as this will be our actual home, not just a quick flip!
On some houses, you might not be able to test all the windows and doors. Here is one bedroom of our house during the home inspection. The room is too packed with junk to access the windows.
6. Interior Finishes:
Floors, walls, ceilings, lighting, cabinets, built-ins – these are interior finishes that really impact the way a home feels. Make a quick check of the quality of these items and if you’ll need to upgrade these. Cost for these can range tremendously depending on what you choose, so plan accordingly.
Most finishes in our house need full replacement. New flooring is needed everywhere – it was poor quality and past it’s usable life. Here is a photo showing the flooring in the hallway and the bathroom. The sheet linoleum throughout the house has tears and built-up dirt. The bathroom flooring is a poor choice for a wet area and is warped.
Kitchens and bathrooms are the big ticket items that typically make the most return on your investment. We will completely replace both in this house. Here is the bathroom when we bought the house – in need of help!
Take a look at the kitchen. I’m sorry, I typically like to fix and repair if possible, but here, everything must go!
On more with the kitchen to the right, looking towards the back deck. This house is a hot mess.
Here is a full view photo of the kitchen after we closed on the house and cleaned it up a bit. There is some charm there, I’ll admit.
7. Mechanical – Heating, Cooling, & Appliances:
Heating, cooling, and other appliances can be costly items the repair or replace. Make sure you know what you’re in for by getting those systems properly inspected.
This house did not have air conditioning, and it’s main source of heat is the wood stove in the Living Room photo below. The stove was in sore need of a good cleaning but was otherwise functional. I love the quaint cozy feel and the warmth of a wood stove, so I was very happy to find it in this house. However, the stone base was crumbling and in need of replacement. We’ll eventually end up replacing this whole stove and surround with a new EPA certified stove.
Appliances such as kitchen stove, refrigerator, washer & dryer don’t always come with the house. Make sure you know what’s included and negotiate as you prefer. Costs for those can add up!
All the appliances except the water heater in this home were due for replacement. Here is a photo of the dishwasher. It is a relic that had been leaking for who knows how long!
8. Electrical:
Old electrical wiring, such as knob and tube wiring, can be a fire hazard and a costly headache to replace. Know what type of wiring the house has. More modern homes have what’s called romex wiring. We are thankful this house has that more modern wiring already installed.
Next, check that your electrical box is sufficient for your house. This varies by location, but our house has a 200 amp panel that is standard for most modern homes. If you’re not sure what to look for, get a home inspection and ask the inspector. They should know.
9. Plumbing & Sewer:
Some things to want to check for plumbing are:
- Type and age of plumbing. Some types of plumbing are prone to leaks after a certain amount of time. Home insurance may give you trouble or charge more for the age and type of your plumbing. Ask a home inspector for more specifics on the house you are considering.
- Check under sinks and in bathrooms for signs of water issues.
- When you’re in the foundation crawlspace, check any plumbing below the house for signs of leaks.
- If the water is still available in the house, consider running sinks, showers, tubs, toilets, etc. to check for issues.
- If the home as a septic system, have that inspected properly! That is important to have in working order.
Here is a photo from under the kitchen sink. I can see signs of minor water leaks and rodents here.
We had the septic system inspected and found it to be outdated and filled with roots, lol. Thankfully, we were able to negotiate having the septic system completely replaced by the owner before we closed on the home. Here is the newly installed septic tank.
10. Attic:
Find the attic access and get up in there! During our inspection process, I used a telescoping ladder that fit in the trunk of my compact car so that I could see the framing in the attic. You’ll likely need a light as well. I recommend a good headlamp.
Things to look for in the attic are:
- Roof sheathing – Any signs of water damage in the roof sheathing? This can help determine the quality of your roofing.
- Roof and ceiling framing – Is the framing in good condition? Meaning do you see water leaks or signs of water damage or wood rot? Is the framing bowing, deflected, or twisted? Do the connections look solid?
- What type of framing is it? Truss framing as you see in the photo below can be more difficult to modify.
- insulation – Is the insulation good quality?
- Infestation – Are there signs of vermin, rats, bats, or insect intrusion? You can see a can of wasp spray in the photo below. There were two VERY LARGE paper wasp nests for us to contend with that were staining the ceiling below.
- Electrical – Do you see any hazardous electrical wiring? We had some jerry-rigged wiring done by previous tenants that needed to be removed.
- Ventilation – Are there eave and gable vents to provide proper ventilation?
11. Roof:
The more simple the roof shape, generally the less costly it is to fix. If your roof is 20 years old or older, it may need replacing.
We were thankful that we did not discover any roof leaks while in the attic, but the age of the the roof and the deterioration of the shingles meant that it was in need a full replacement. There are multiple satellite dishes, added over the years, that we not longer needed as well.
12. Planning & Permit Records:
It is a good idea to check the local Planning and Building Department for records they have on the house. This can help you determine if any construction work was done illegally, without a permit. If that’s the case, you may be on the hook for either legalizing that work or tearing it down.
Here you’ll find your zoning and setback requirements that will tell you what and where you’re legally allowed to build and do (limited agriculture? chickens?) on your property.
13. Property Title:
Before you close on your fixer upper house, make sure your property title is free and clear of any holds, claims, or liens. A title company can help you with this. Basically, you want to ahead of time if the title has an debts associated with it, how those will be paid, and if you will own the title free and clear.
