How to DIY Install Bathroom Full Height Subway Tile Walls

Before we get into the details, let me preface this post by saying that I am very determined and persistent yet total NEWB at tiling. This post will show you how a tiling amature tackled her first ever tiling project. This post will include a lot of lessons learned and will hopefully give you the confidence to tackle your own tiling projects. BUT do not consider this professional advice. This is for informational and entertainment purposes only. With that said, let me show you how I installed full-height bathroom subway tile walls in the small bath remodel.

Ok, so here’s where we left off. This is the waterproofed cement board, more details on that install here. The red color comes from the RedGard waterproofing. This has at least two coats applied quite liberally. Now we’re water-tight and ready for tile.

Redgard Waterproofing

Roll-on waterproofing membrane

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CUSTOM BLDG PRODUCTS LQWAF1-2 Redgard Waterproofing, 1 gal

Start Subway Tiles Along Bathtub:

We’ll be using classic white subway tiles to the ceiling in this modern classic bathroom remodel. I wanted an easy to install tile what wasn’t too expensive for my first tiling project just in case I needed to re-do some things. Plus I like the look, and there are a lot of ways to pattern subway tiles. Instead of the standard 1/2 offset you usually see with subway tile, I decided on a 1/3 offset. I just like it better, probably because it looks more a brick pattern which I find pleasing.

Where do you start tiling when installing bathroom subway tile walls? Plan our your tile layout to make sure you wont have any small slivers along the top or bottom of the wall, but in general, its a good idea to start at the bathtub. That way you have a nice looking row of full height tile along the bath.

Before tiling, I mixed up a small batch of thin set in a Home Depot bucket and grabbed a trowel with 1/4 in square notches.

Per the plan, I started placing tiles along the bathtub. In order to get them level, you want to start at the highest point along the tub. Shouldn’t porcelain covered steel stubs be level? You’d think they would be, but in spite of all my floor leveling, this tub was either cast or somehow ended up not perfectly level. So make sure to check that before you start.

I kept about 1/4 inch gap at the highest point between the tile and the tub that will get caulked later. The gap was only about 3/8 inch at the lowest part of tub, so it wasn’t off by much. But I want truly leveled, straight lines in the tile.

I used many sizes of levels and a laser level from Amazon to keep me on track with each row.

Laser Level Line Laser

The cross line laser with slide switch enable you to set 2 modes, self-leveling mode and manual mode. When working in self-leveling mode, the range of leveling and compensation is 4°± 1°and the laser level will automatically level for horizontal/vertical/cross line, otherwise the laser will flash to indicate the out-of-level condition. In manual mode, the self-leveling function is deactivated and the cross is locked to use the device at any angle.

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Laser Level, RockSeed 100 Feet Cross Line Laser with Self-Leveling, Vertical and Horizontal Line, Rotatable 360 Degree, Carrying Pouch, Battery Included (Red)

1/16 inch tile spacers kept my tiles spaced evenly along the wall. Here are rubber spacers I used. After a section of tiles dries, you can pull these out and reuse them.

500 Pieces Wide Tile Spacers Tiles Leveler Spacers Replaceable

Material and size: the tile spacer is made of sturdy and hard PVC plastic, which is solid and not easy to break, and can serve you for a long time with a goof performance; The length and width are approx. 0.78 inches, and thickness is about 3 mm, please confirm the size before purchase

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500 Pieces Wide Tile Spacers Tiles Leveler Spacers Replaceable Tile Levelers Wall Floor Cross Spacers for Ceramic Tile and Stone Installation (1/16 Inch)

Here is a tiling progress shot. You can see I’ve worked my way up and around the first wall niche. A few tiles need special cuts that need a wet tile saw. I had been trying to cut tiles with a manual cutter, but that just doesn’t work here. So I bought a Rigid table top wet saw that came with it’s own blade.

BIG LESSON LEARNED HERE: See how I have those tiny slivers of tile above the first niche? UGH! That is because in spite of all my measuring, when I leveled the floor below the bathtub, I raised it up a bit higher than would work with my measurements and did not shift the niches. So my rows of tile do not line up with the niche edges as I had hoped.

As this point, I was trying very hard to convince myself it wasn’t a big deal, and I did not want to redo the niche framing and waterproofing, so it is what it is. If I could do this again, I would WAIT until the bathtub is in place BEFORE finalizing the niche placement. I might even wait until I have that first row of tile installed to make sure everything lines up. Oh well. You live and learn!

Another thing I learned here is that as long as the tiles are spaced out properly, you can omit a troublesome tile and work around that area. See that missing tile on the upper left corner of the lower niche? I scraped off the wet thin set and will come back to that once I have the wet saw up and running so I can cut that piece properly. It worked out just fine to install that one piece later.

Anyway, back to the tile install: If you look closely, you can see some yellow on the right edge of the bathtub. Those are plastic wedges that I used to keep the first row in place. The other tiles have already dried.

Here is a close up of the plastic wedges, called lash clips. They are part of a tile leveling and spacer system, but I only used the wedges here.

While I was still trying to convince myself that I needed a wet saw, I continued tiles on easier walls. You know how I plan to install full height tile walls in the shower? Well, actually, it’s going to be full height tiled walls in the bathroom! That WHOLE vanity wall is getting tiled. Whew! Here is a progress shot on the vanity wall.

See the wood board along the bottom of the tiles? That is screwed in place to keep that bottom row level with the bathtub until the thin set dries. I want to get the floor tiles in place before I finish the bottom section of wall.

More progress on the vanity wall. You can see the spacers between tiles here. I also added some RedGuard waterproofing around the sink area. That probably overkill, but whatever.

Subway Tiles at Shower Niches:

I want a nice finished edge at the outside corners of the shower wall niches. You can do this with bullnose tile pieces, but I like the more modern look of Schluter tile edges. Here is a close up of the white aluminum Schluter edge I am using.

I cut the ends to a 45 degree angle with a hack saw and a saw guide or miter box. I think it looks more finished than butting one piece up against another at the corners. You can find a ton of color options and shapes for Schluter edges at Home Depo.

This is a progress photo of the tile in the lower niche. I decided to simply keep the subway tile pattern going in the niche walls instead of using a different tile. I like the simplicity of it, and did not want a distracting busy pattern in the niches. So clean and simple it is.

I just kept trucking along. This is after many days of tiling. Small tiles really take time to set and level each piece. Like I mentioned, this is my first tiling project EVER, so I was probably extra slow as well.

Here the bottom niche is tiled!

Let me show you a close up of the niche edge with the 45 degree cut Schluter trim. This is getting picky, but you can also see the cuts I made for the tiles around the niche are not 100% smooth. If I were to do this project again, I would buy a better blade for the tile saw instead of using the one that comes with it.

Rinse and repeat for the second niche. See how the subway pattern continues in the niches?

I used the same Schlueter edges on the window opening and kept tiling until I hit the ceiling! Woohooo! That was many days of work and lots of steps on and off step ladders and trying not to slip in the bathtub.

I mentioned that lower section of wall tile below the bathtub will get filled in after the floor tile in place. I’ll also be using the same grout for the walls and floor, so I’m going to rest my tired legs a few days and then move on to the floor tile.

I’m planning some really cool brass accents on the floor. Can’t wait to show you!